Driving into Montgomery for my first visit since moving away from Alabama over a decade ago, I was struck by how wide and empty the streets were, the number of buildings with peeling paint and For Rent signs browning in the window, and the plethora of ornate plaques marking pivotal moments in our nation’s Civil Rights history. I parked around the bend from my destination, 39 Dexter Avenue, right at the spot where Rosa Parks boarded a bus that fateful night in December 1955.