ROAD TRIP #5: Toronto

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BURNAWAY Magazine presents ROAD TRIP, a summer photo series covering critics Lilly Lampe’s and Alex Robins’s path as they make a circuitous journey from Atlanta to Brooklyn. Below find highlights from their visit to Detroit!

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We spent a memorable few days in Toronto enjoying art and Chinese food. We stayed at a great little bed and breakfast right between the University of Toronto, the Art Gallery of Ontario, and Chinatown. Between our arrival and departure we didn’t drive once, which was a relief after the previous weeks.

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Mother’s Dumplings. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

We got into town in time for dinner, and walked over to Mother’s Dumplings before catching a show at Second City. Second City is an improv comedy troupe whose alumni include Mike Myers, John Belushi, Stephen Colbert, and Tina Fey, to name a few. No pictures allowed, but it was a good time.
Smokes Poutine. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Smoke’s Poutine. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

On our way home we stopped at Smoke’s Poutine. Poutine is a Canadian dish featuring french fries, gravy, cheese curds, and whatever else you’d like to pile on. As we can attest, it’s superb late-night food.
Toronto's CN Tower, photo by Lilly Lampe.
Toronto’s CN Tower, photo by Lilly Lampe.

The next day we walked to The Power Plant, a public (that’s nonprofit to us non-Canadians) contemporary art gallery known for intellectually rigorous exhibitions.
The Power Plant. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
The Power Plant. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

We spent some time in the exhibitions, particularly Postscript: Writing After Conceptual Art
Afterwards, we headed over the Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO).
The back of the AGO. Visible is the expansion designed by Frank Gehry. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
The back of the AGO. Visible is the expansion designed by Frank Gehry. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

 
Frank Gehry-designed staircase. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Frank Gehry-designed staircase. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

 
View of Toronto from the rear of the AGO. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
View of Toronto from the rear of the AGO. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

The AGO has the largest public collection of works by Henry Moore and a massive photography collection, as well as notable Canadian, European, and Contemporary artworks. We were lucky enough to see Lost in the Memory, an exhibition of works by artist-duo Janet Cardiff and George Bures Miller. If you were at MoMA PS1 last year, you may have seen Cardiff’s The Forty Part Motet, 2001, which features forty speakers each broadcasting an individual singing a Sacred Choral piece by Thomas Tallis. The effect is spellbinding.
The Forty Part Motet, 2001, Janet Cardiff, installation at AGO. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
The Forty Part Motet, 2001, Janet Cardiff, installation at AGO. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

The AGO cleverly chose to install The Forty Part Motet in their Henry Moore Sculpture Center, giving new life to the bronzes and adding to the sense of being enveloped.
Experient in F# Minor, 2013, Janet Cardiff & George Bures Miller. © Janet Cardiff & George Bures Miller. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Experient in F# Minor, 2013, Janet Cardiff & George Bures Miller. © Janet Cardiff & George Bures Miller. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

The top floor of the Gehry wing was devoted to the Cardiff-Miller exhibition. Each piece had a different focus; some were interactive sound, others–like the recreation of a thunderstorm in Japan–set a scene, others seemed to toe the line between free-form and character-driven. In short, highly experimental work and intriguing on many levels.
Crispy pork on a bed of jellyfish at House of Gourmet. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Crispy pork on a bed of jellyfish at House of Gourmet. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

After wearing ourselves out at the museum, we returned to Chinatown for dinner at the House of Gourmet.
Bok choy and shrimp on pan-fried noodles at House of Gourmet. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Bok choy and shrimp on pan-fried noodles at House of Gourmet. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

The next day we left Canada, but not before one last donut stop at Glory Hole, a dubiously-named establishment that has shot to the top of our list of favorite donut shops.
Glory Hole donuts, photo by Lilly Lampe.
Glory Hole donuts, photo by Lilly Lampe.

 
Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Photo by Lilly Lampe.

 
Bread and butter donut soft-serve sandwich at Glory Hole Doughnuts. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Bread and butter donut soft-serve sandwich at Glory Hole Doughnuts. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

 
Niagara Falls, Canadian side. Photo by Lilly Lampe.
Niagara Falls, Canadian side. Photo by Lilly Lampe.

On our way out of Canada, we stopped by Niagara Falls. Sorry America, but Canada has the better view.
Next up: our final road trip post, featuring Buffalo, NY and Mill Run, PA.


 
 
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